The Future of Sustainable Cuisine
We literally hold the future global food supply in hand, both communally and
individually, and there are exciting alternatives ahead. Our choices, ideals,
and actions will shape the future. The food we buy, the stores we frequent, the
farmers who grow our food and the organizations and government leaders we
support will dictate our future quality of life. Now, at the beginning of the
21st century, we must work to educate our friends and families and and begin
down the road to a sustainable tomorrrow.
Population
The world's poplation will more than double in the next 25 years. This
dramatic increase will impact the global food supply in ways not yet entirely
understood. The biggest increases in population will occur in the Third World
and developing nations, due primarily to lack of family planning education and
religious conviction, which makes it easy for us here in the United States to
focus blame there for overpopulation and over consumption. However, we would do
better to turn out gaze homeward. In fact, we Americans have about 40 times the
impact on the food supply as those in developing countries. Paul Hawken reports
that "the 50 million people who will be added to the U.S. population over the
next forty yrears will have the same global impact in terms of resource
consumption as 2 billion people in India..." Those figures speaks volumes about
the unchecked abundance we enjoy in the United States. They also reflect a high
level of dispassionate irresponsibility amoung our citizenship.
What We Can Do
Agriculture
The importance of supporting community farmers is paramount because they
keep local economies strong and help conserve fossil fuels. It is not enough,
however, to seek out area farmers without considering their agricultural
methods. If a local farmer is using large amounts of herbicides and pesticides,
is monocropping on a large scale, or is wasting prescious soil and water you
would do better to seek out a producer in a neighboring state who uses sound
farming practices. Do not, however mistake innovation and technological advance
for poor farming practices. In fact, efficiency and technology are not
necessarily contrary to sustainability.
An excellent way to become directly involved in local farming is to support
CSAs. The money you invest at the beginning of the season will go directly to
meet the costs of running the farm. In addition, if you are interested, most
CSAs will give you a discounted rate in exchange for part time labor. Every week
during the harvest period shareholders receive a box of fresh, organic
vegetables and/or fruits. CSAs keep money in the community and save on fossil
fuel use, but they also help us to understand seasonality and teach us the
difficulties and rewards of farming sustainably in ways that cannot be
accomplished by other means. When a particular crop is ravaged by bad weather
and another produces far beyond expectation, shareholders understand how it
happened because they were part of the process. The real joy of farming this way
is in the incredible flavors your food will have because the farmer is not
limited to products that ship well, or can withstand modern processing or
packaging techniques.
Support and Demand Diversity
We absolutely must support diversity in all of our food supplies, not only
for the preservation of flavor and food memories, but for for long-term food
security. There are many ways to do this. Supporting local farms, shopping at
farmers markets, buying and planting your own heirloom seeds, and making a
conscious effort to purchase animal products from sources that use more obscure
breeds than commercial agribusinesss farms do. Part of your commitment to
biodiversity has to be a willingness to spend more money on the food you
buy.
Redirect Corporate Dollars
It is naive to think that all of the world's food can be grown on small,
local farms, so we have to find ways to include agribusiness in our sustainable
future. A recent report by PR Newswire is evidence that that at least some large
agribusiness companies believe that sustainability and profitability go hand in
hand. Amway Corporation, made famous by it's line of consumer direct cleaning
products has acquired a majority interest in Trout Lake Farm, the largest
organic herb farm in the United States. The farm will provide Amway with
organic, high-quality herbs for use in it's food suppliments. Such a keen
interest by a corporation in an organic farm confirms the belief that consumer
demand dictates marketplace cycles.
Influence Allocation of Governmental Dollars
We should begin by learning to work with the government to control the power
of agribusiness and direct their research in ways that encourage sustainability.
Subsidies whose primary beneficiaries today are large corporations are contrary
to the spirit in which they were originally conceived. Farm supports ought to be
directed away from businesses, like corporate hog factory farms, or even smaller
conventional farms, that have a negative environmental impact and given
specifically to those that display marked interest in preserving the
environment. Rather than encouraging corporate farming to continue unchecked,
this type of farm support would give corporate farmers an incentive to make
moves towards sustainability.
Keep an Open Mind
It is easy to be swept into a vortex of singular thinking that does not
allow unique or innovative approaches to enhance or expand the current ideology,
so it is extremely important that each one of us remains open to all
possibilities. Even biotechnology must be seen as a potential source of
sustainable food for the future. The Rockefeller Foundation, a private
philanthropic organization, for example, aims to "increase crop yields of
small-holder farmers in developing countries profitable and without degrading
natural resources," and in 1984, the Foundation began the International Rice
Biotechnology Program focusing on Asia. It is an integrated set of research,
training, technology transfer, and capacity-building activities that will
benefit low-income rice producers and consumers in developing countries. By the
year 2005, the Foundation's hope is to increase rice production in Asia by 20
percent through the use of biotechnology without damaging the environment or
reducing farm incomes. The biotech industry may hold the key to some types of
sustainable food production, providing we work to guarantee the long-term future
safety of our food supplies.
Fisheries
We must work to ensure the sustainable viability of our seafood supplies
through support of aquaculture research and technological advance. A good
example is in recent research that has shown catfish, long a stalwart of
Louisiana cookery, to be a species particularly suited to farm raising. It is
native to the southeast, making the potential for species pollution relatively
small, and what makes them particularly attractive, as a farmed fish is that
they are at the bottom of the food chain. Largely herbivorous, catfish require
only about three percent fishmeal to thrive. Shellfish, most notably mollusks,
have also been shown to be well suited for aquaculture because they are natural
water filters. Mollusks feed by filtering small particles of plankton and algae
from the water. They grow all around the country in basin estuaries and actually
clean water rather than pollute it. They do produce a feces-like by-product, but
their overall effect on the environment is much more positive than negative.
Polyculture, long practiced in China and Japan, is aquaculture at its best.
As Becky Goldburg explains, polyculture is the farming of many species of plants
and animals together in one system "in order to make optimum use of the water
and nutrients and to minimize farm wastes. Aquaculture systems that produce
hydroponic vegetables with fish appear to be increasingly common in the United
States. These systems grow crop plants with aquatic manure, suspending the roots
of crops in aquaculture effluent. These crop plants remove large quantities of
nutrients from effluent in order to nourish their growth, thus cleaning the
effluent. Sale of these vegetable crops then generates income for
aquaculturists. The Inslee Farm, Inc. of Oklahoma, for example, grows chives in
greehouses using the effluent from ponds in which a variety of different fish
species are raised, including tilapia, catfish, and grass carp." Some
polyculturists have catfish growing on the bottom of the tanks, finfish in the
next layer above, mollusks on ropes growing vertically and the hydroponic
vegetables on the uppermost layer. Polyculture can also be part of a terrestrial
agriculture system in which the nutrient pollution (waste water bi-product of
aquaculture) is fed to poultry and used as fertilizer on fields.
We also need to support research and technological advance for wild fish
harvesting. At an Oldways Symposium on sustainable food supplies, better methods
of fish farming were discussed. "Of all the sea's possibilities for man's
future, the greatest may be its promise of a significant increase in the world's
food supply. Square mile for the square mile, the sea is estimated to be
potentially more productive than the land. Yet at present the oceans supply only
1 or 2 percent of man's food. ...For the the future world population man will
have to start large-scale farming of the sea as he has for so many thousands of
years farmed the land. If such scientific techniques are perfected and extended,
aquaculture--farming of the sea--may one day provide the world with a constant
supply of the protein so desperately needed by burgeoning populations...." It
was reported at the Symposium that one test showed that a one-acre shellfish
farm can yield around 15,000 pounds of protein, a figure that could never be
repeated in land-based farming.
Conservation limits will have to be implemented and enforced on a global
scale, and preservation efforts must be undertaken before a species, like
Pacifiic salmon, is so over fished that it is placed on the Endangered Species
List. The fishes' numbers, in some cases, are a mere tenth of what they were
just a century ago. If loggers, sport and commercial fishermen, grocery store
owners, and restauranteurs had only taken steps to preserve the species earlier,
their livelihoods might not be in jeopardy today. It is also imperative that
consumers embrace businesses that support environmentally safe harvesting and
production practices, and discontinue support of those that do not. Consumer
boycotts have been effective tools in changing fishing practices in the past.
The most well known was a tuna boycott brought about by public sentiment against
unnecessary dolphin losses due to irreponsible fishing practices. Ultimately, if
you care about preserving our fisheries it is your responsibility to buy seafood
that was raised, and/or caught sustainably. Before you buy fish, ask where it
came from. If it was farm raised, do some research on the company that brought
the fish to market before handing them your hard-earned dollars. Demand that
policy makers support scientific recommendations on fisheries management, and
whenever possible,eat local fish, support local fishermen, and try new menu
items to promote biodiversity. Even what seems like the smallest effort will
make a difference.
So What If We Ate Less Meat
Reducing our consumption of animal protein is not only healthier for our
bodies, but it is also better for the Earth. In Vital Signs 1998: The
Environmental Trends that are Shaping Our Future, Lester Brown explains that
"Perhaps the single most important distinguishing feature of dietary changes
over the last half-century has been the growing appetite for animanl protein. It
is hunger for protein that spurred an increase in the world fish catch of nearly
fivefold, boosting it from 19 million tons in 1950 to 93 million tons today...
Worldwide, the production of beef and mutton, like that of fish, depends heavily
on a natural system--rangeland. And, like oceanic fisheries, rangelands are
being pushed to the limits of their carrying capacity and beyond. Once
rangelands are fully exploited and substantial growth in beef production can
come only from feedlots, then the competition with pork and poultry for grain
intensifies."
Cattle and other livestock consume 90 percent of the soy and 70 percent of
the grain grown in the United States. That soy and grain could be used to feed
starving populations around the world, 40 to 60 million of whom die annually.
The time has come to return to more traditional diets in which meat is not the
focal point of the meal, but simply a garnish--a treat and special accompaniment
to a meal--not the meal itself. We must create meals with a focus on grains,
legumes, and a variety of fruits and vegetables.
Demand Local
Food in the United States travels an average of 1,300 miles prior to
consumption. The farther our food supplies travel from their points of origin,
the more they deteriorate, resulting in products with compromised nutritive
value and flavor. Supporting farmers' markets, CSAs, and demanding local
products at your supermarket are a few of the ways we can all cut down on
over-use of fossil fuels and increase the nutritive value of our food.
In the past decade we have seen the number of CSAs in America increase to
over 1,000 nationwide. They serve a total of over 100,000 households and vary in
size from plots that sustain ten families, to full-fledged farm with as many as
700 members. You might be surprised to find that there is one right in your
neighborhood.
Chef's and Restaurants
One of the challenges of all food service operations is controlling food
cost. In many restaurants this often tips the scales toward buying industrially
produced products rather than local, regional, or organic food. Many chefs are
working to change their purchasing habits and maintain their costs. One of the
most common solutions is to pass the costs along to the consumer, but this will
not work without dedicated effort on the part of the restauranteur to educate
his clientele. Highlighting local and regional ingredients on the menu and
educating the waitstaff about what you do will help educate the consumer at the
point of sale.
Children and Education
One of the most importand parts of sustainability is the next generation. To
move sustainability forward, children must be well educated about their choices
for the future. In a rush to teach our kids to navigate the information
superhighway, we a forgetting to teach them about the system of life that
surrounds and supports them. Early exposure to caring for the Earth will enable
children to better nourish themselves and others. School gardens are a necessary
part of their education. They provide a living learning environment and teach
kids basic math, agriculture, horticulture, and cooking skills. We are seeing a
resurgence in school gardens across the country, however, their numbers are
nowhere near those of a century ago when there were 80,000 school gardens in the
United Sates. It is my hope that we will again see school gardens in every town
in America. In fact, this is not an unattainable goal.
San Antonio, Texas is a prime example of how a city can take simple and
dramatic steps toward creating school gardens. In 1990 the San Antonio
Independent School District partnered with the Bexar County Master Gardeners
Programs ans committed to establish eight new gardens every fall in inner city
schools. Five years later over 20,000 students were actively participating in
the program and over 300 volunteers were contributing more than 21,000 hours of
community service annually. At the time of this writing nearly 200 San Antonio
Schools have created a gardening program with the help of the Texas Agricultural
Extension Service at Texas A&M.
In Vermont, a group of school garden advocates is working on reviving the
teaching garden. Together they have authored a book titled Digging
Deeper, the aim of which "is to cultivate the budding movement for
practical, place-based education by providing a new generation of teachers,
community workers, children, and parents with the fundamental tools to frow
their own food safely and reliably. Together with thousands of communities
around North America and the world, we see this as a crucial step toward genuine
sustainability locally and human-scaled cooperation globally." The book is a
real how-to guide to setting up school gardens. From a set of criteria to use in
determining how to set up the garden to diagrams of actual gardens and recipes,
this book is a wonderful resource, and can make starting a school garden an easy
and rewarding endeavor.
Institutions of higher educaton are doing their part as well. Vern Grubinger,
instructor at the University of Vermont, and I recently spent some time
together, and he described some of the educational opportunities that exist at
the college. Though the University of Vermont is not a culinary school, its
foundation as a land-grant university gives it strong agricultural roots. Vern
told me that more and more universities are introducing sustainable agriculture,
or ecological design, programs as well as agro-ecosystem centers and student
farms. Both ecological design and agro-ecosystem work in concert with the land
as opposed to redesigning the land to fit farming. UVM's internship program is
on the cutting-edge of agricultural education in sustainabilty models. It sends
students to all corners of the state to participate in every type of
agriculture, including dairying, produce farming, animal husbandry, and
specialties like cider and cheese-making. Grubinger said, "One thing we are
trying to do is connect students with real agriculture, we have a sustainable
agriculture internship program which is a four-credit experience on a farm. Our
internshops require a learning contract, and they require some academic rigor,
so the student is a co-learner with the farmer and actually studies some aspect
of the farm system related to sustainability, which means profitable,
stewardship of resources, and connection to the community." One internship
project helped farmers study the feasibility of converting from conventional to
organic dairying. Another ran a study examining the feasibility of chickens as
pest controls in a flower garden. Yet another helped a local cider producer
develop a marketing plan. These internship programs not only supplement the
students' educations, but it also assists the farmers who may not have the
resources to conduct their own research. UVM ahso sponsors the Land Link Vermont
program, which works to connect young farmers with experienced agriculturalists
who are seeking to transfer their land and experience to farmers who will be
able to carry the torch into the future. This is particularly important because
there is a shortage of young farmers in America. Vern explained that the school
has built a "...database, in a sophiticated way so that both sides list the
attributes they are interested in. For instance, do I need bottom land or
pasture land, do I want to be near a population center for retail or not, and
then we give them the best matches...It costs a lot of money to buy a farm in
Vermont these days, so we are looking for opportunities where there is, either a
lease with option to buy, or a partnership, or employee with a potential to buy
in later. The exciting piece of this is, if you could plan ahead before you
retire from farming for about ten years and find somebody, and actually work
with them for five or ten years, you have not just transferred the land and the
buildings, but all of your knowledge about the enterprise."
In 1999 the first school dedicated solely to the marriage of sustainable
agriculture and sustainable cuisine had its true beginnings with a founder's
dinner at L'Etoile. The School of Organic Farming and Cooking at Taliesin will
be housed on Frank Lloyd Wright's estate, Taliesin. Wright was known for his
"organic architechture", and the 600 acre estate includes almost 200 acres
historically utilized as farmland. The school will be a training ground for
chefs and farmers schooled in the theory and practice of organic agriculture,
foraging, and sustainable culinary practices. The goals of the school will be to
convert the present conventional agricultural practices of the estate to
organic/sustainable ones and to create a culinary school environment that places
growers and culinary students together to learn and apply the knowledge of
growing, harvesting and cooking seasonal ingredients. This type of alternative
culinary institution is one that we must look to as a way to teach the next
generation of culinarians.
Of course, schools and colleges are not the only organizations that provide
valuable culinary education. Other groups we should support include Chefs
Collaborative, The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy, Seed Savers Exchange,
Native Seed Search, The Chef and the Child Foundation, Oldways, SOS, Mothers
& Others for a Livable Planet, and the Fresh Network, as well as
corporations who make it a priority to keep consumers informed. Stonyfield
Farms, Ben and Jerry's and the Organic Cow are a few national companies that
come to mind, but do your own research into local producers. Support them, and
tell your friends and colleagues why.
Vote Because You Can Make a Difference
When we shop for food we cast a vote for the future of our planet. When we
buy processed foods we vote for agribusiness. Fresh local food racks one up for
your neighnorhood farmer. Eating at McDonalds supports agribusiness. Dining at
restaurants like Chez Panisse and L'Etoile Keeps your money local. In early 1999
our voting potentially made a difference with the proposed organic standards
regulations. The Associated Press reported that even though the new rules have
not yet been resubmitted, a number of issues are being resolved, such as
prohibiting the label "organic" for any food that is irradiated, genetically
engineered or treated with antibiotics. Additionally, the rules will also allow
regional organic certification offices to certify meat as organic, something
that the national government has yet to do.
* Always buy local whenever possible and buy from a source as close to the
source as possible.
* Support farmers' markets and farm stands.
*
Join a CSA or work with a local farmer who will supply your restaurant with
produce of your choosing.
* Next time you are in your supermarket, ask to
talk to the produce manager. Tell the manager of your concern about pesticides,
and say you would prefer to buy local regional produce and certified organic
food if possible.
* Try new to you regional products.
* Plant a
garden and help set-up a school garden.
* Ask your grocers and suppliers
on what types of farms the meat and poultry they sell is raised. If they do not
know, ask them to find out.
* Support grocers and butchers who get their
supplies from farmers who do not use factory-farming techniques.
* Cook
seasonally, do not buy out of season produce.
* Read labels, find out
what is in the food you are eating.
* Educate yourself, understand the
issues and let your legislators know how your feel and what rules and
regulations are important to you.
Each of us, every day, makes a
difference--good and bad--simply through the act of eating. Looking at the big
picture can seem overwhelming, and that is why we hope the information here at
The Joe Baum Forum on the Future has provided you with the knowledge you will
need to begin to make informed choices about the food you eat. Begin taking
stock of your pantry and work toward making changes as soon as possible so that
we might have a food supply that is sustainable for generations to come. "A
little knowledge that acts is worth infinitely more than much knowledge that is
idle."
Source: The Joe Baum Forum on the Future The Chefs Collaborative National Forum
2000
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